The tabarly traverse / la traversée Tabarly

The Tabarly traverse is one of the most classical traverse in the Calanques which stands out because of its panoramic view and the quality of the climb ( click here for more info ).  For sure it is an adventure to climb this route. It is also stunning to enjoy the view over Cassis, the cliff of cap canaille and the kayak paddling at your feet. This climb makes you feel some mountaineering spirit as commitment, route finding, rope management, lack of equipment and wilderness. But this is also marked by the sunny and hot atmosphere. As it is a southern face, the temperature gets always hotter when the sun rises and the reflexion of the sun doesn’t let you rest !

We climbed the route together with Audrey on a sunny fall day (end of october) and as we departed a bit too late and took our time we enjoyed the sunset by the coast ! That was good for the pictures !

It is easy to find your way towards the route as you cross a huge arch (arche de Castelviel).

Then you follow the cliff to the left and a small single track leads you  to a 20m rappel. The first pitch is really easy. Then you follow a more serious pitch. the following 6 a traverse is really nice with a small crux at the beginning and an airy traverse secured by eclectic gear which need to be some renewed…

A small climb down leads you to the 2 nd rappel that you can avoid to the left (small 5c and rusty belay…). The pendulum is not practical over the the edge of the cliff. Then comes the crux of the route : an exposed 5b that you can protect on good cams except one of them by the crux (still correct) .  The rocks are near the surface and really don’t want to test a fall on these cutting rocks. Both climbers needs to climb safe enough to be sure not to fall. The next pitch  has a nice 5c which is less tricky than previous one.

Then you come over a more athletic 6a which is well protected on pitons and you arrive to the 3rd rappel which is also a pendulum of 20m. Don’t forget to clip the rope if you don’t want to be stuck away from the rock and over the sea !

The next 5c is athletic and protected by 2 spits in total but it is easy to add good protection yourself  on the final part !

you finish the climb by an easy but funny pitch.

I warmly advice climbers to go there. But be careful about the equipment as it is quite old and you really need to know how to climb on gear !

Thanks to Audrey for this great adventure !

 

Audrey in the accesss to Castelviel plateau
Audrey in the accesss to Castelviel plateau
En Vau
En Vau
Castelviel arch / arche de castelviel
Castelviel arch / arche de castelviel
the route goes through all the cliff
The route goes through all the cliff
Almost touching the ground
Almost touching the ground
Audrey at the end of the abseil
Audrey at the end of the abseil

 

Cap port miou
Cap port miou
Isolated from civilisation but not from sea cruisers
Isolated from civilisation but not from sea cruisers
Audrey
Audrey at the end of the 6a
Some reflexion / tension !
Some reflexion / tension !
Audrey all at smilling
Audrey all at smilling by the belay
Cap canaille
Cap canaille

 

audrey tabarly canaille-2
audrey in tabarly route / Cap canaille
Using some clean protections !
Using some clean protections !
Kayak  and cap canaille
Kayak and cap canaille
MAT_8918
Audrey in the 5th pitch of Tabarly traverse
Audrey in the 6th pitch of Tabarly traverse
Audrey in the 6th pitch of Tabarly traverse
Audrey in the 6th pitch of Tabarly traverse
Audrey in the 6th pitch of Tabarly traverse
Audrey in the 6th pitch
Audrey in the 6th pitch of Tabarly traverse
Last sun ray behind the cliff
Last sun ray behind the cliff

 

Suntset by the sea
Suntset by the sea

 

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