We climbed the route together with Audrey on a sunny fall day (end of october) and as we departed a bit too late and took our time we enjoyed the sunset by the coast ! That was good for the pictures !
It is easy to find your way towards the route as you cross a huge arch (arche de Castelviel).
Then you follow the cliff to the left and a small single track leads you to a 20m rappel. The first pitch is really easy. Then you follow a more serious pitch. the following 6 a traverse is really nice with a small crux at the beginning and an airy traverse secured by eclectic gear which need to be some renewed…
A small climb down leads you to the 2 nd rappel that you can avoid to the left (small 5c and rusty belay…). The pendulum is not practical over the the edge of the cliff. Then comes the crux of the route : an exposed 5b that you can protect on good cams except one of them by the crux (still correct) . The rocks are near the surface and really don’t want to test a fall on these cutting rocks. Both climbers needs to climb safe enough to be sure not to fall. The next pitch has a nice 5c which is less tricky than previous one.
Then you come over a more athletic 6a which is well protected on pitons and you arrive to the 3rd rappel which is also a pendulum of 20m. Don’t forget to clip the rope if you don’t want to be stuck away from the rock and over the sea !
The next 5c is athletic and protected by 2 spits in total but it is easy to add good protection yourself on the final part !
you finish the climb by an easy but funny pitch.
I warmly advice climbers to go there. But be careful about the equipment as it is quite old and you really need to know how to climb on gear !
Thanks to Audrey for this great adventure !
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